The colorful town of Hue

Said to be the intellectual, cultural, and spiritual heart of Vietnam, Hue is full of palaces, pagodas, tombs, temples, and a dash of French colonial flair. It was the country’s political capital from 1802-1945 under 13 emperors of Nguyen dynasty and their decadence is largely what makes the area so beautiful. The city is set along the Perfume river and anchored by a massive moated citadel. We explored Hue and found the place as colorful as its name.

In a visit to Hue, the natural place to start is the early 19th-century Citadel. Though it was bombed heavily during The “American War,” this royal complex still has plenty to see. It is a UNESCO site with many facets, including the Forbidden Purple City. This is where the emperor would live his private life, being waited on by concubines and servants (eunuchs only as to not tamper with his ladies or lineage).

We also visited the tomb of Emperor Tu Duc, built from 1864-1867. Set on a lake with frangipani and pine trees, the series of ornate temples and tombs were surreal. Mosaics, frescoes, carvings…every square-inch was bedazzled with something. And, of course, we could not miss the opportunity to feel royal for a minute.

An Yankee in Vietnam

It is impossible as an American to travel through Vietnam and not have an identity crisis. You find yourself thinking that we had no business getting involved here in the first place. You find yourself sympathetic to the terrorized civilians of Vietnam, while at the same time empathizing with the terrified young American soldiers, many of whom fought a war they didn’t believe in. You find yourself embarrassed, and you found yourself confused. My confusion was even deeper, as I grew up in a Communist country and vividly remember how much hope my grandfather had in an American military intervention that never come true.

There are plenty of things even the greatest on Earth has done in the past that I am not proud of. Slave ownership and abuse. Internment camps during WWII. And, of course, the Vietnam War.

It's hard not to get emotional here. Half the time I found myself sick about the horror we caused. Specifically, the use of Agent Orange, which not only killed or maimed half a million people but has gone on to disfigure unknown generations, and poison food and water sources. The other half of the time I felt an indignation at the biased and propagandized views being fed to tourists. War is a two-sided hell, but the atrocities of the Viet Cong against the South and yes, against Americans, were completely absent from the discussion. But as they say, history is written by the victors.

Nobody had anything bad to say about my being an American. I felt welcomed and safe. They did not forget… just that they are moving past it and realizing that I am not the one responsible for the bombs that fell in their country all those years ago. I did not meet one person in Vietnam who narrowed their eyes at me upon learning that I was American.

The wounds of the Vietnam War (or American War, how the call it there) are still very fresh despite the decades that have passed. I hope as time begins to heal them we can all learn from a more balanced, two sided story of a war gone horribly wrong; and that we can move forward into the future and learn from the mistakes that were made.

Mot Hai Ba Yo!

For the Brits, it’s “Cheers!” For the Germans, it’s “ Prost” and for the Mexicans is "Salud". There is no Bangla term for toasting. In fact, as far as I recall there is no term for drinking either.

For the Vietnamese, a loud, hearty, “Mot, hai, ba, YO!” which translates to “one, two, three, yo!” Synchronized drinking at it’s best.

The good news for beer lovers is that Vietnam has some of the cheapest beer in the world.  Beer hoi, as the special local draughts are known, can be found on street corners all over the country for around 5000 dong a glass (roughly 25 cents.)  Most batches of this 'fresh beer' contain almost no preservatives.

Bia hoi bars are found all over the streets. Traveling around Vietnam you are sure to find yourself seated at some very small plastic stools, around a rickety plastic table, so close to the traffic that the wing mirrors of motorbikes threaten to dash your drink from your very hands. Sometimes you could end up sitting straight on the pavement, as I did in the backpacker district in Saigon.

 

Due to lack of refrigeration, beer is traditionally served with a huge chunk of ice dunked in it. This means that under the sweltering sun, your beverage can become severely watered down. All you can do is drink up and top the mixture up with beer. Once your beer is served it is time to cheers and more countdowns of 'Mot, Hai, Ba.. Yo!'. Clanging of glasses before everyone attempts to down as much of the beer as they can. Great  way to make conversation and meet new friends.

 

Vietnam’s most charming town: Hoi An

Hoi An was by far our favorite town in Vietnam. A trading port dating back to the 17th-century, it has been shaped by the cultures that passed through its ports—Japanese, Chinese, Dutch, Indian and Vietnamese. With its well-preserved homes, shops, and temples, the whole town center has been deemed a UNESCO world-heritage site but it still bustles beyond the museum-goers.

Hoi An is an UNESCO site. It's like a huge outdoor museum. One of the icons of the town is the is the “Bridge for Travelers from Afar.” Built in 1593, this bridge connected the Japanese settlement to the rest of town. Today, its beauty and ethnic roots have become the symbol of Hoi An.

The energy and beauty of the city is too hard to capture with just words and photographs.

When night fell, the first thing we noticed was the force of votive candle sellers. It is tradition to light a lotus votive for good luck, love, and happiness and send it out to sea. Thousands of people partake, leaving the water twinkling with lit flowers and positive vibes.

 

For so many reasons we adored Hoi An. It recharged our bodies and souls, and there is no question about it, we will definitely be returning here in the future.